As I sit here in reception at the Aspara Hotel in Luang Prabang watching the local people go about their daily business I would like to reflect on our wonderful journey.
This time last year we travelled from North to South Vietnam and saw a little bit of Laos. This year we have explored a little of Cambodia and we have now explored a little more of Laos.
Our experiences have been plentiful and some of the highlights have been exploring the temples at Siem Reap including Angkor Wat, the huge silk cotton trees with their giant silver grey roots slowly strangling the massive stone structures that were constructed here hundreds of years before. If you allow, your imagination can run riot and you can picture a small bird or animal leaving the tiny seed that is now a massive tree over a hundred feet tall with the Jungle slowly edging closer to swallowing the Temple whole before they were rediscovered many years later.
Then on to the lake with the floating village, children full of laughter playing in the brakish waters, large Boa Constrictors that coiled around some of the little childrens tiny bodies as they playfully tried to extract money from tourists for a photo with them.
Into Southern Laos and Wat Pho with its dramatic sacrificial stone the shape of a woman's body carved into it; you could picture her lying there as the tribes people gathered around ready to make her the sacrifice to the Gods.
Back up to Luang Prabang, always an enchanting and mystical place where one can wind down by the banks of the Mekong.
Every one you say Sabaidee (Hello) to always responds with a lovely smile and a Sabaidee back, in fact this is true of Vietnam Cambodia and Thailand and is so uplifting. Talking of Thailand the Arun Wat in Bangkok deserves a mention as it is truly amazing and a sight to behold at night from the opposite side of the river.
Meeting Fan again was amazing, we arrived unannounced at his temple and a young novice went looking for him calling his name, he suddenly appeared at the door of his small wooden dwelling which is raised up some four to six feet from the ground on wooden
stilts. His face was a picture as he realised it was us and he tried to suppress a huge smile as he is very calm and shows little emotion due to his mantra as a Monk and Buddhist. I was incredibly moved at this point and I'm sure Debs was bursting with excitement.
I have to take this opportunity to heap praise on Debs, from the first time that we met Fan, she has shown a huge amount of faith and a dogged determination to see this thing through and help a boy from a very primitive back ground make something of himself.
I have at times been a cynical and over cautious old bugger, whom on many occasions has warned Debs of the perils of getting too involved or being taken for a ride.This has in fact driven Debs on and she has made absolutely certain through research and from finding someone on the ground in Luang Prabang who is from the UK and hopes to open an English School in the not too distant future, that Fan is in fact a hard working and worthy student, who is now relying on us to help him. As Alan the guy Debs got in touch with and who has been hugely helpful pointed out, these boys are often let down by people offering sponsorship once the novelty has worn off or if their own circumstances change.
I was really quite shocked when we sat in Fans tiny room, he has a bed with a wooden panel for a mattress and a few old covers, he shares his space with another novice and his most treasured possession is his ancient mobile phone which Debs sent him, it means he can call his mother from time to time and he also has many tiny pictures of friends and family in its memory and now of course pictures of us. Debs, a big thank you to you for allowing me to be part of this very worth while and moving experience, well done.
What a lovely time we've had.
P.S. It wouldn't be the end of the blog if we didn't comment on some of the best and worst of's:
Best breakfast: Green Park, Vientiane
Softest bed (most were really hard): Room 5 at the Apsara
Best meal: lunch at the Reahoo Restaurant in Siem Reap, especially the pumpkin in coconut milk pudding with tapioca
Best guide: Phonsy in Luang Prabang, especially for arranging our visit to Fan's home village
Worst landing: Pakse from Siem Reap almost on a par with Heathrow on a jumbo from Bangkok (very windy)
Best Hotel: They were all good except the Nong Khiaw Riverside but we did really like the Apsara in Luang Prabang - especially Room 5 (we stayed in three rooms!) and we loved our rickety floating bungalow Salaphae on Don Khone island.
Sunday 16 January 2011
Last few days in Luang Prabang
Our last couple of days of this fantastic trip and we rented bicycles and just bumbled. It's incredible how quickly you're in the countryside from the centre of Luang Prabang. We headed out on the Vientiane road south for around 5km and turned off towards a rather smart hotel. We decided to cycle straight past it and within moments we were in the middle of a very small village with cursory temple by the mekong. It was lunch time and the villagers were sitting in the middle at what seemed like collective trestle tables and cooking station and having lunch together. 
Our new friends
We asked could we join them. After lots of hand signals gesturing a soup bowl and mention of beer lao this was greeted by surprised giggling from the women that we should want to sit with them but no sooner did they get the gist of what we were suggesting than we were ushered to a wooden bench and one woman set about preparing us some Pho (pronounced 'fer') We were handed glasses of beer with ice (ooh er, could regret this tomorrow, oh what the hell) and some pretty dodgy looking and tasting 'something' on skewers. Surreptitiously we fed them to the village dog. They do like a drink in Laos, especially the women. They kept topping us up and insisted we 'downed in one'. Thank goodness they were small glasses. The soup was delicious and conscious we needed to cycle back to town we cut out before they got us too drunk. It was a great experience though and the children were so sweet. Lots of smiling, as usual, and two little girls fascinated by this impromptu visit by strangers, barely left our side the whole time, including introducing us to their puppy!
You're never short of choice for eating in Luang Prabang. There are smart expensive restaurants but to be honest you can't better the small restaurant/cafes that line the streets, the mekong or the nam khan rivers that enclose the town. Every evening there is the night market that takes over the whole of the main street and a side street from this has a food market. It's great food and very fresh. There are several stalls cooking fish and meet on the barbecue. Whatever you have seems to be 10,000 kip (that's less than a pound) then you go to another stall and put whatever veggies and rice or noodles you want, the lady then sticks them all in a wok and stirfry's them for you. Added to that a large beer Lao and you've a fantastic meal for less than £3.
Day 2 and still in bumbling mode we cycled in the other direction by the new stadium to visit Alan from LEOT. We'd brought him an odd selection of gifts from home - christmas puds, tea bags, a Time and Private Eye magazine and a cap. He would have liked a pork pie and some stilton but as we'd be travelling nearly 3 weeks before seeing him our luggage would probably be walking on its own by the time we saw him!
The excellent news is that subject to board approval LEOT has agreed to accept Fan as one of their students from the next scholastic year. He'll by then be 16 but will still be the youngest student they currently have. This will be better for him as every couple of months or so their homeland director Teng who is Lao will speak with him to check everything is okay and will check each term on his grades etc. He attends Lao school every weekday anyway but with our assistance he goes to private English school an hour each evening and from September will either go to the LEOT English school if it's open by then and if not he'll also go to weekend school. It's really not expensive. I think we pay £20 a term for his weekday English classes and his English is improving so much. Obviously if the Leot school opens that's preferable as then he'll be taught by English teachers so his accent will be much better. Their schools unfortunately tend to have Lao teachers who were taught by Lao teachers so their grammar and vocabulary might be great but often hard to understand until you get your ear into the accent.
We visited Fan at his temple Xieng Mouane a couple more times before leaving which gave us a chance to get a little insight to his daily life. Prayers, school and chores around the temple takes up a large portion of their day but it has a sort of boarding school atmosphere and it was heartening to see they're a happy bunch. We were looking at some pictures on my iphone and there was one of the house. He asked how many people live there with us - we rather embarrassingly said just us which prompted his next question of who cooks for us. He seemed quite confused when we said we do. He obviously assumed that we must have servants!
One afternoon he suggested we come at 6. We arrived a little early and he was still working with the others putting sticks around some trees in the yard so he pointed us to the temple to pray where there were already 4 novices with their master chanting. Fan is a confident and fairly forceful young man so we did as we were told. It was so funny, a few minutes later he popped his head through the open doorway checking up on us and motioned to us that our hands should be prayer-like and then disappeared again!
At 6.30 he was going off to his English class so we had to say good-bye. It was really quite sad as we're just getting to know him and we won't be back for a year. He asked us if we could come back in June as his little brother is becoming a Novice Monk but he understands that we have to work.
It's clear Fan's moving to Luang Prabang is giving him a much better chance in life and of achieving his aspirations, and indeed enabling him to have some. He's a bright, hard-working and mature boy and we are very pleased we can offer the finance to push his education on a notch.
We asked could we join them. After lots of hand signals gesturing a soup bowl and mention of beer lao this was greeted by surprised giggling from the women that we should want to sit with them but no sooner did they get the gist of what we were suggesting than we were ushered to a wooden bench and one woman set about preparing us some Pho (pronounced 'fer') We were handed glasses of beer with ice (ooh er, could regret this tomorrow, oh what the hell) and some pretty dodgy looking and tasting 'something' on skewers. Surreptitiously we fed them to the village dog. They do like a drink in Laos, especially the women. They kept topping us up and insisted we 'downed in one'. Thank goodness they were small glasses. The soup was delicious and conscious we needed to cycle back to town we cut out before they got us too drunk. It was a great experience though and the children were so sweet. Lots of smiling, as usual, and two little girls fascinated by this impromptu visit by strangers, barely left our side the whole time, including introducing us to their puppy!
You're never short of choice for eating in Luang Prabang. There are smart expensive restaurants but to be honest you can't better the small restaurant/cafes that line the streets, the mekong or the nam khan rivers that enclose the town. Every evening there is the night market that takes over the whole of the main street and a side street from this has a food market. It's great food and very fresh. There are several stalls cooking fish and meet on the barbecue. Whatever you have seems to be 10,000 kip (that's less than a pound) then you go to another stall and put whatever veggies and rice or noodles you want, the lady then sticks them all in a wok and stirfry's them for you. Added to that a large beer Lao and you've a fantastic meal for less than £3.
Day 2 and still in bumbling mode we cycled in the other direction by the new stadium to visit Alan from LEOT. We'd brought him an odd selection of gifts from home - christmas puds, tea bags, a Time and Private Eye magazine and a cap. He would have liked a pork pie and some stilton but as we'd be travelling nearly 3 weeks before seeing him our luggage would probably be walking on its own by the time we saw him!
The excellent news is that subject to board approval LEOT has agreed to accept Fan as one of their students from the next scholastic year. He'll by then be 16 but will still be the youngest student they currently have. This will be better for him as every couple of months or so their homeland director Teng who is Lao will speak with him to check everything is okay and will check each term on his grades etc. He attends Lao school every weekday anyway but with our assistance he goes to private English school an hour each evening and from September will either go to the LEOT English school if it's open by then and if not he'll also go to weekend school. It's really not expensive. I think we pay £20 a term for his weekday English classes and his English is improving so much. Obviously if the Leot school opens that's preferable as then he'll be taught by English teachers so his accent will be much better. Their schools unfortunately tend to have Lao teachers who were taught by Lao teachers so their grammar and vocabulary might be great but often hard to understand until you get your ear into the accent.
We visited Fan at his temple Xieng Mouane a couple more times before leaving which gave us a chance to get a little insight to his daily life. Prayers, school and chores around the temple takes up a large portion of their day but it has a sort of boarding school atmosphere and it was heartening to see they're a happy bunch. We were looking at some pictures on my iphone and there was one of the house. He asked how many people live there with us - we rather embarrassingly said just us which prompted his next question of who cooks for us. He seemed quite confused when we said we do. He obviously assumed that we must have servants!
One afternoon he suggested we come at 6. We arrived a little early and he was still working with the others putting sticks around some trees in the yard so he pointed us to the temple to pray where there were already 4 novices with their master chanting. Fan is a confident and fairly forceful young man so we did as we were told. It was so funny, a few minutes later he popped his head through the open doorway checking up on us and motioned to us that our hands should be prayer-like and then disappeared again!
At 6.30 he was going off to his English class so we had to say good-bye. It was really quite sad as we're just getting to know him and we won't be back for a year. He asked us if we could come back in June as his little brother is becoming a Novice Monk but he understands that we have to work.
It's clear Fan's moving to Luang Prabang is giving him a much better chance in life and of achieving his aspirations, and indeed enabling him to have some. He's a bright, hard-working and mature boy and we are very pleased we can offer the finance to push his education on a notch.
Thursday 13 January 2011
Khon Keung- Fan's homeland
An early start was required for this very important day - we're going to visit Fans village which is an hour downstream from Nong Khiaw. Our boat was about 40ft long with chairs you would expect to find on a bus but they were strapped to the floor of the boat - looked so odd but much more comfy than the usual wooden ones. We couldn't leave until daylight as the water levels are quite low at this time of year and so there are rocks and rapids to negotiate which our boatman did amazingly well.
We arrive at a muddy bank on the side of the river. Khon Keung can only be reached by boat and when we arrived there wasn't a soul to be seen. We climbed the high muddy bank, through the empty stalls which once a week would be a busy market. At the top we saw Fan in his bright orange robes waiting for us and we followed him in silence at a distance through what is actually a large village (around 100 huts on stilts) There are some minority tribes people living here whom we think are mostly Khmu (still checking this out) but classed as an Upland Laos village
As we walked up and down the red muddy banks more and more excited children followed us, some of the younger ones quite warily as they presumably haven't seen white people or strangers. As we passed the school they stopped and we kept going and finally arrived at the hut of his mother.
They are all made from Bamboo and woven banana leaves and his mothers house has a tin roof. We climbed the steep stairs (without handrail), removed our extremely muddy shoes and walked in to the one room which has a corner partitioned off with netting that is the sleeping area. Large rice sacks, pots and pans and wicker baskets were piled up in the other corner. On the floor are mats - some made of cotton, the others rattan. There is no electricity in this village other than the small amount made from a contraption of sticks and a dynamo in the river. It's obviously very effective. Fan was taking photos with his mobile and it said low battery. We were astounded when 1/2 an hour later his young brother returned it to him fully charged!
We had brought a few presents - apples and some coffee for Fans mother, a teddy bear for his young sister Sau and a shirt and a couple of exercise books and pens for his brother Un. His mother chuckled at the bear. Apparently she isn't too well mentally (she's only 30 something and looks 60) so we've no idea whether she thought the presents were for her as she didn't hand them to the children. Possibly she didn't want any of the villagers to see and they probably don't get presents so they don't anyway have the same significance as they do in the western world.
We were asked to sit down. I didn't sit next to Fan as then there was no fear of me accidentally touching him as it is disallowed for a woman to touch the robes of a monk or hand him anything directly.
Over the next hour people came and went to see what and who we are I guess. A man in his late 20's or early 30's sat at the head of the circle and stayed for a while - we learnt he is the head of the village. This surprised us as we imagined the heads of villages to be old but it seems the government is encouraging the younger men to take this position as they tend to be better educated. Fan handed David a bag of sweets and everytime a visitor arrived Fan prompted David to give them one, except for one lady I noticed - no idea who she was, perhaps the lady his father has left his mother for, surely not.
Then there was a short lull and slightly uncomfortable silence until the same people started to return, carrying baskets of sticky rice, steaming chicken and beer bottles one of which which we were later to experience contained Lao Lao (lethal rice wine). Un was extremely active in all these preparations, running to and fro.
Because Fan is a monk he is much respected by all and just sat, beamed at us periodically and gently commanded. His mother had a silver bowl which she filled with rice and in it she placed a decoration and candles with the rice keeping them in place. This was put on a round silver table but not before a white table cloth was carefully laid over it. The whole thing (the pah kwan) was then placed in the centre of the room and the women busily made table decorations from banana leaves to go around it. We are watching the preparation of a Baci Ceremony which is about to be held in our honour.
Baci is an animist ritual used to celebrate important events and occasions, like births and marriages and also entering the monkhood, departing, returning, beginning a new year, and welcoming or bidding etc. The ritual of the baci involves tying strings around a person’s wrist to preserve good luck. The belief is the body has 32 organ spirits and it is best to keep as many of them as possible in the body at one time so the ceremony is to call back any that might have wandered off. These strings should be left on the wrist for 3 days and then either untied or left to fall off. They mustn't be cut.
There must have been over 20 villagers in this small home, which included the village head, Fan's grandfather, his sister who had come from school, his father, mother and an assembly of others. All those seated round the table, ourselves included, had to put their hands on the table, singing started and then proceeded quite quickly with some chanting then we had to put our hands back on the table facing upwards this time, then hold them in the air at which point each person in a scramble tied a white piece of string on each of our wrists. We probably have around 10 on each one.
Fans father who was conducting the ceremony then poured us each a little Lao Lao, then a little more! then we were handed a piece of chicken and rice and with the official part over everyone tucked into the food, Lao Lao and beer. I noticed the women had gravitated to their own circle so it seemed polite that I should move to theirs. They all laughed a lot at this so I have to think it was the right thing to do. A couple of inches of beer was poured into a glass and the first person would drink it, leaving a small amount they would pour it onto the floor, I guess to clean away their germs on the glass?. Then the next person and so on. Every time it got to me they poured about 4" - I think they were trying to get me drunk!
It was soon 12 o'clock and we had to go. A few photos were taken and off we set back through the village alone except for our guide Phonsi to our boat. We set off downriver for the four hour journey to Luang Prabang. As we journeyed we had plenty of time to reflect. It was quite hard thinking of how they all live, especially when it's cold and wet. Everything is damp all the time and there's no way of drying anything except by a fire. The babies have no nappies so their soiled clothes are constantly being washed. One little boys trousers were so thread bare that you could see his pants but they were too so his little bum poked through. But it's what they're used to I suppose but used to it or not I'm sure doesn't make it easier. Fans lodgings at the temple in Luang Prabang we now realise are quite a step up from home.
As we journeyed downstream we passed groups of people panning for gold, collecting weed, feeding their pigs on the beach, washing clothes at the rivers edge, fishing and generally carrying on their daily lives. Some would wave and others wouldn't. It really is an incredibly tough life for the majority of the Lao people and we have only had a glimpse.
Finally Luang Prabang came into view, and with it electricity, hot water and dry beds. What softies we are. Walking back into the Apsara was like coming home!
N.B. Animist - people who worship their ancestry and believe in the spirits.
We arrive at a muddy bank on the side of the river. Khon Keung can only be reached by boat and when we arrived there wasn't a soul to be seen. We climbed the high muddy bank, through the empty stalls which once a week would be a busy market. At the top we saw Fan in his bright orange robes waiting for us and we followed him in silence at a distance through what is actually a large village (around 100 huts on stilts) There are some minority tribes people living here whom we think are mostly Khmu (still checking this out) but classed as an Upland Laos village
As we walked up and down the red muddy banks more and more excited children followed us, some of the younger ones quite warily as they presumably haven't seen white people or strangers. As we passed the school they stopped and we kept going and finally arrived at the hut of his mother.
They are all made from Bamboo and woven banana leaves and his mothers house has a tin roof. We climbed the steep stairs (without handrail), removed our extremely muddy shoes and walked in to the one room which has a corner partitioned off with netting that is the sleeping area. Large rice sacks, pots and pans and wicker baskets were piled up in the other corner. On the floor are mats - some made of cotton, the others rattan. There is no electricity in this village other than the small amount made from a contraption of sticks and a dynamo in the river. It's obviously very effective. Fan was taking photos with his mobile and it said low battery. We were astounded when 1/2 an hour later his young brother returned it to him fully charged!
We had brought a few presents - apples and some coffee for Fans mother, a teddy bear for his young sister Sau and a shirt and a couple of exercise books and pens for his brother Un. His mother chuckled at the bear. Apparently she isn't too well mentally (she's only 30 something and looks 60) so we've no idea whether she thought the presents were for her as she didn't hand them to the children. Possibly she didn't want any of the villagers to see and they probably don't get presents so they don't anyway have the same significance as they do in the western world.
We were asked to sit down. I didn't sit next to Fan as then there was no fear of me accidentally touching him as it is disallowed for a woman to touch the robes of a monk or hand him anything directly.
Over the next hour people came and went to see what and who we are I guess. A man in his late 20's or early 30's sat at the head of the circle and stayed for a while - we learnt he is the head of the village. This surprised us as we imagined the heads of villages to be old but it seems the government is encouraging the younger men to take this position as they tend to be better educated. Fan handed David a bag of sweets and everytime a visitor arrived Fan prompted David to give them one, except for one lady I noticed - no idea who she was, perhaps the lady his father has left his mother for, surely not.
Then there was a short lull and slightly uncomfortable silence until the same people started to return, carrying baskets of sticky rice, steaming chicken and beer bottles one of which which we were later to experience contained Lao Lao (lethal rice wine). Un was extremely active in all these preparations, running to and fro.
Because Fan is a monk he is much respected by all and just sat, beamed at us periodically and gently commanded. His mother had a silver bowl which she filled with rice and in it she placed a decoration and candles with the rice keeping them in place. This was put on a round silver table but not before a white table cloth was carefully laid over it. The whole thing (the pah kwan) was then placed in the centre of the room and the women busily made table decorations from banana leaves to go around it. We are watching the preparation of a Baci Ceremony which is about to be held in our honour.
Baci is an animist ritual used to celebrate important events and occasions, like births and marriages and also entering the monkhood, departing, returning, beginning a new year, and welcoming or bidding etc. The ritual of the baci involves tying strings around a person’s wrist to preserve good luck. The belief is the body has 32 organ spirits and it is best to keep as many of them as possible in the body at one time so the ceremony is to call back any that might have wandered off. These strings should be left on the wrist for 3 days and then either untied or left to fall off. They mustn't be cut.
There must have been over 20 villagers in this small home, which included the village head, Fan's grandfather, his sister who had come from school, his father, mother and an assembly of others. All those seated round the table, ourselves included, had to put their hands on the table, singing started and then proceeded quite quickly with some chanting then we had to put our hands back on the table facing upwards this time, then hold them in the air at which point each person in a scramble tied a white piece of string on each of our wrists. We probably have around 10 on each one.
Fans father who was conducting the ceremony then poured us each a little Lao Lao, then a little more! then we were handed a piece of chicken and rice and with the official part over everyone tucked into the food, Lao Lao and beer. I noticed the women had gravitated to their own circle so it seemed polite that I should move to theirs. They all laughed a lot at this so I have to think it was the right thing to do. A couple of inches of beer was poured into a glass and the first person would drink it, leaving a small amount they would pour it onto the floor, I guess to clean away their germs on the glass?. Then the next person and so on. Every time it got to me they poured about 4" - I think they were trying to get me drunk!
It was soon 12 o'clock and we had to go. A few photos were taken and off we set back through the village alone except for our guide Phonsi to our boat. We set off downriver for the four hour journey to Luang Prabang. As we journeyed we had plenty of time to reflect. It was quite hard thinking of how they all live, especially when it's cold and wet. Everything is damp all the time and there's no way of drying anything except by a fire. The babies have no nappies so their soiled clothes are constantly being washed. One little boys trousers were so thread bare that you could see his pants but they were too so his little bum poked through. But it's what they're used to I suppose but used to it or not I'm sure doesn't make it easier. Fans lodgings at the temple in Luang Prabang we now realise are quite a step up from home.
As we journeyed downstream we passed groups of people panning for gold, collecting weed, feeding their pigs on the beach, washing clothes at the rivers edge, fishing and generally carrying on their daily lives. Some would wave and others wouldn't. It really is an incredibly tough life for the majority of the Lao people and we have only had a glimpse.
Finally Luang Prabang came into view, and with it electricity, hot water and dry beds. What softies we are. Walking back into the Apsara was like coming home!
N.B. Animist - people who worship their ancestry and believe in the spirits.
Wednesday 12 January 2011
Nong Khiaw and Mouang Neua
Driving from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw takes about three hours but we stopped at a Hmong village enroute which was really interesting. 
The villagers were very welcoming and we introduced them to a great present Sue bought us for Christmas - a digital Polaroid camera and so were able to leave them with little photos - it caused a huge amount of excitement and was thrilling to do. The chief of the village heard the excitement and then asked if we would take he and his wife's photo. We then had to wait whilst they disappeared into their hut- 5 minutes later they emerged in spotless clothes that looked as if they'd come straight out of the packet - obviously they only come out for special occasions. We left them with a very formal looking photo!
Next stop was a pee stop in a little town. Phonsi had just earlier asked if we were vegetarians. No we replied we'll pretty much eat anything. Well we have now eaten deep fried witchety grubs which for those of you who've watched I'm A Celebrity Get Me Out Of Here will know exactly what these are any if you don't they're like big chrysalis like grubs - actually tastes quite good dipped in a bit of salt if you don't think too much about what you're eating!
Nong Khiaw is on the Nam Ou river and quite a bit higher than Luang Prabang with stunning scenery, or so we believe as it was very misty - in fact the weather was unusually for this time of year pretty rubbish. We were now in the area of Laos that was heavily bombed during the Vietnam war.
Unbelievably 3 million tons of bombs (more than the Second World War) were dropped by the Americans on Laos for a war that wasn't even theirs. It was a covert war i.e. The CIA were involved in recruiting some of the Lao tribes to fight the north vietnamese. The bombing was totally indiscriminate and huge bomb shells are everywhere - you see them used as troughs for animals, planters, braziers for fires or just lying about where people have found them. Many of the bombs were cluster bombs containing 670 of the explosive clusters. Clearing of the UXO's is happening but it will take years and years and years, some say 100 years. Every now and again a farmer will find one whilst ploughing hopefully without personal injury to himself or his water buffalo.
Our guide Phonsi took us into one of the large limestone caves where during the war the Laos people hid. Over 300 government officials occupied this particular one.
Other caves were used as the bank, a hospital,possibly schools although i dont think there was much teaching going on and of general living quarters for everyone. We met a lady who said she'd had 2 of her children in a cave. You just can't imagine they could have lived in caves for 6-7 years and just came out at night to work the fields so they wouldn't starve.
Next morning we woke to rain,even more mist and cold. We were a waterproof down as someone had stolen it from our luggage at one of the airports so we bought a plastic poncho and made do. Phonsi was with us but we met up with local guide Lan and off we trekked across the fields of rice paddies for around 7km. Even in the drizzle it was a brilliant walk and we managed to return without one leech!
It was pretty cold though when we returned to Nong Khiaw and unfortunately we knew we couldn't get much warming up done in our digs for the night so we went for a curry!
The villagers were very welcoming and we introduced them to a great present Sue bought us for Christmas - a digital Polaroid camera and so were able to leave them with little photos - it caused a huge amount of excitement and was thrilling to do. The chief of the village heard the excitement and then asked if we would take he and his wife's photo. We then had to wait whilst they disappeared into their hut- 5 minutes later they emerged in spotless clothes that looked as if they'd come straight out of the packet - obviously they only come out for special occasions. We left them with a very formal looking photo!
Next stop was a pee stop in a little town. Phonsi had just earlier asked if we were vegetarians. No we replied we'll pretty much eat anything. Well we have now eaten deep fried witchety grubs which for those of you who've watched I'm A Celebrity Get Me Out Of Here will know exactly what these are any if you don't they're like big chrysalis like grubs - actually tastes quite good dipped in a bit of salt if you don't think too much about what you're eating!
Nong Khiaw is on the Nam Ou river and quite a bit higher than Luang Prabang with stunning scenery, or so we believe as it was very misty - in fact the weather was unusually for this time of year pretty rubbish. We were now in the area of Laos that was heavily bombed during the Vietnam war.
Unbelievably 3 million tons of bombs (more than the Second World War) were dropped by the Americans on Laos for a war that wasn't even theirs. It was a covert war i.e. The CIA were involved in recruiting some of the Lao tribes to fight the north vietnamese. The bombing was totally indiscriminate and huge bomb shells are everywhere - you see them used as troughs for animals, planters, braziers for fires or just lying about where people have found them. Many of the bombs were cluster bombs containing 670 of the explosive clusters. Clearing of the UXO's is happening but it will take years and years and years, some say 100 years. Every now and again a farmer will find one whilst ploughing hopefully without personal injury to himself or his water buffalo.
Our guide Phonsi took us into one of the large limestone caves where during the war the Laos people hid. Over 300 government officials occupied this particular one.
Other caves were used as the bank, a hospital,possibly schools although i dont think there was much teaching going on and of general living quarters for everyone. We met a lady who said she'd had 2 of her children in a cave. You just can't imagine they could have lived in caves for 6-7 years and just came out at night to work the fields so they wouldn't starve.
Next morning we woke to rain,even more mist and cold. We were a waterproof down as someone had stolen it from our luggage at one of the airports so we bought a plastic poncho and made do. Phonsi was with us but we met up with local guide Lan and off we trekked across the fields of rice paddies for around 7km. Even in the drizzle it was a brilliant walk and we managed to return without one leech!
It was pretty cold though when we returned to Nong Khiaw and unfortunately we knew we couldn't get much warming up done in our digs for the night so we went for a curry!
Monday 10 January 2011
Luang Prabang - 10th Jan '11
It's so lovely to be back in LP and we're staying in a brilliant hotel - The Apsara which is at the end of the peninsula where the Nam Khan and the Mekong converge. It's beautifully boutique, stylish but low key with such friendly staff who are efficient and most speak excellent English. The salon/restaurant has Rattan chairs, polished teak floors, beautiful oil paintings and black and white photo on the walls. Little alcoves in the walls are filled with small seated glass buddhas in an array of colours. They are truly lovely. Our room has shutters opening onto a small balcony over-looking the silent slow moving river below. We'd be happy here for weeks rather than just days.
Luang Prabang really is the coolest place on the planet and to us is up there as one of our favourite places.
We're especially looking forward to visiting Fan, a novice monk we met last year and have been emailing since and donating bits of money here and there so he can have English classes. It really doesn't cost very much by Western standards. Fan comes from a small village on the Nam Ou river north of LP where there is only a primary school and so there was no opportunity for him to continue his education. But Fan is one of the lucky ones whereby his family managed to have him accepted as a novice monk in a temple in LP.
We found his temple Xieng Mouane. There were several orange robed boys on a roof fixing it but we couldn't see Fan amongst them so we asked a novice where we might find him. He ran off shouting his name and then Fan appeared, beaming, in the doorway of an old raised hut. Just as quickly he disappeared again as he dashed back to rapidly tidy his quarters before he would let us enter! Boys, the same the world over!
His personal space, shared with another is an incredibly basic wooden room about 8x6 ft - sheets of newspaper line the Walls and ceiling. His school books piled high on a small table on top of which sits his pride and joy - a basic old mobile phone we'd sent him. It has a camera and he was quickly taking our pictures with it as if he thought we might disappear.
We talked for about 45 minutes, his English is really very good considering how little tuition he's had so far. I had to sit on the floor because women have to be below monks and can't touch them. Then we left as it was time for prayers.
We also met up with Alan Shiel, one of the directors of LEOT a small UK charity helping children from very poor backgrounds in Laos to have an education. Alan has been hugely kind in helping us to help Fan. What is great is that LEOT are happy to take Fan on with our guaranteed sponsorship which is much better for him than us trying to do it on our own.
Sunday 11th
We got up early as Fan wanted us to present alms.
He was very particular with the time - five to he said but instead of five to seven he told us five to 6! It's an absolutely wonderful thing to see in Luang Prabang. There are over 30 temples and every morning the hundreds of monks walk through the streets and the residents (and some tourists) put rice and fruit and all sorts into the alms bowls the monks carry. When done they return to their respective temples, pour everything out on the floor and then divide up between each man or boy for the two meals they eat that day being breakfast and lunch. After midday they don't eat anything until the following morning when they do it all over again.
The rest of our day we ambled round town - it's a wonderful place to amble. A coffee here, a temple there, a massage before we head to the banks of the Mekong for lunch. We revisited Fan in the afternoon as he wanted to show us his old temple and to meet his brother Un. He told us to meet at his school as we needed to take a Tuk Tuk and so it was all a bit covert- we think probably as it's not really accepted for monks to travel with foreigners. His old temple was lovely and on the banks of a small river with only 5 monks. His master was away which was a shame - Fan had been twitching his robes all the way there to look his best for his old master. His brother is sweet and only twelve and already living away from home for 7 months waiting to take Fans place at the temple so he too can get a secondary education. It's a tough life.
Luang Prabang really is the coolest place on the planet and to us is up there as one of our favourite places.
We're especially looking forward to visiting Fan, a novice monk we met last year and have been emailing since and donating bits of money here and there so he can have English classes. It really doesn't cost very much by Western standards. Fan comes from a small village on the Nam Ou river north of LP where there is only a primary school and so there was no opportunity for him to continue his education. But Fan is one of the lucky ones whereby his family managed to have him accepted as a novice monk in a temple in LP.
We found his temple Xieng Mouane. There were several orange robed boys on a roof fixing it but we couldn't see Fan amongst them so we asked a novice where we might find him. He ran off shouting his name and then Fan appeared, beaming, in the doorway of an old raised hut. Just as quickly he disappeared again as he dashed back to rapidly tidy his quarters before he would let us enter! Boys, the same the world over!
His personal space, shared with another is an incredibly basic wooden room about 8x6 ft - sheets of newspaper line the Walls and ceiling. His school books piled high on a small table on top of which sits his pride and joy - a basic old mobile phone we'd sent him. It has a camera and he was quickly taking our pictures with it as if he thought we might disappear.
We talked for about 45 minutes, his English is really very good considering how little tuition he's had so far. I had to sit on the floor because women have to be below monks and can't touch them. Then we left as it was time for prayers.
We also met up with Alan Shiel, one of the directors of LEOT a small UK charity helping children from very poor backgrounds in Laos to have an education. Alan has been hugely kind in helping us to help Fan. What is great is that LEOT are happy to take Fan on with our guaranteed sponsorship which is much better for him than us trying to do it on our own.
Sunday 11th
We got up early as Fan wanted us to present alms.
He was very particular with the time - five to he said but instead of five to seven he told us five to 6! It's an absolutely wonderful thing to see in Luang Prabang. There are over 30 temples and every morning the hundreds of monks walk through the streets and the residents (and some tourists) put rice and fruit and all sorts into the alms bowls the monks carry. When done they return to their respective temples, pour everything out on the floor and then divide up between each man or boy for the two meals they eat that day being breakfast and lunch. After midday they don't eat anything until the following morning when they do it all over again.
The rest of our day we ambled round town - it's a wonderful place to amble. A coffee here, a temple there, a massage before we head to the banks of the Mekong for lunch. We revisited Fan in the afternoon as he wanted to show us his old temple and to meet his brother Un. He told us to meet at his school as we needed to take a Tuk Tuk and so it was all a bit covert- we think probably as it's not really accepted for monks to travel with foreigners. His old temple was lovely and on the banks of a small river with only 5 monks. His master was away which was a shame - Fan had been twitching his robes all the way there to look his best for his old master. His brother is sweet and only twelve and already living away from home for 7 months waiting to take Fans place at the temple so he too can get a secondary education. It's a tough life.
Vientiane
Friday and we are staying in a very nice Hotel in Vientiane. Our guide Salard who is taking us on a half day tour today is a really warm calm person.
He took us on a very interesting tour which included a small temple, a very ancient and hugely important stupa and finally to the Victory gate which is very similar to the Arc de Triumph.
Salard has a very in depth knowledge of Laos history, we also discovered that formerly he was a novice monk and so we were able to find out first hand how novices' live and study, what their needs are and how difficult it is when making the transition from temple life to that of a lay person. When they're in the temple they are provided with food, accommodation, clothes, an education and anything else vital to their daily well being. Salard after 5 years in the temple left and went to college to study English for 2 years which he paid for with money he had saved from his alms bowl collections over the years and he's now studying law which he can afford because he has a full time job as a tour guide.
As we walked around the city it was easy to listen to Salard his little pearls of wisdom spoken with a wonderful softly spoken English with a very good accent. Sometimes when they're accent isn't so good they babble away and after a short while embarrassingly it's quite easy to glaze over!
He took us on a very interesting tour which included a small temple, a very ancient and hugely important stupa and finally to the Victory gate which is very similar to the Arc de Triumph.
Salard has a very in depth knowledge of Laos history, we also discovered that formerly he was a novice monk and so we were able to find out first hand how novices' live and study, what their needs are and how difficult it is when making the transition from temple life to that of a lay person. When they're in the temple they are provided with food, accommodation, clothes, an education and anything else vital to their daily well being. Salard after 5 years in the temple left and went to college to study English for 2 years which he paid for with money he had saved from his alms bowl collections over the years and he's now studying law which he can afford because he has a full time job as a tour guide.
As we walked around the city it was easy to listen to Salard his little pearls of wisdom spoken with a wonderful softly spoken English with a very good accent. Sometimes when they're accent isn't so good they babble away and after a short while embarrassingly it's quite easy to glaze over!
Thursday 6 January 2011
Don Khone to Vientiane
Laos is still celebrating our New Year. Last night our hotel were holding a New Year party for their staff. We lay in bed listening to some quite good karaoke and some really bad!
This morning we left behind the laid back islands of the south and boarded our long tail boat with guide La to find our driver Sac who had stayed on the mainland. A very easy 2hr drive to Pakse and with time to spare before going to the airport La took us for a coffee at the famed Sinouk coffee shop. You've heard of it surely. Seriously though the coffee was fantastic and the pastries can truly rival those of Cafe Valeris. The coffee is grown in the Bolaven Plateau on the Swan Sinouk plantation and as their lodge has a few rooms it should definitely go on our future trip list. Added to that should be the brand new Tree Top Explorer jungle hotel in Paksong. Zip-lining, trekking and staying overnight in a treetop hotel. Www.treetoplaos.com and www.laojunglefly.com
On the journey to Pakse it gave us time to chat to La a bit about Laos' history and of course some politics crept in. France governed from the late 1900's until 1943 then the Japanese came but only for 6 months as then the US dropped the bomb at Horishima and the Japanese hot footed out of there. Having read a bit more about the history covering the last 60 or so years it's so complicated that I shan't even start to comment here!
So we've arrived in Vientiane and our hotel the Green Park is gorgeous and has a greatlocate and Spamand located only 5 mins by Tuk Tuk into the centre.
We met Teng this evening, the Homeland Director of LEOT, the UK based charity helping us to help Funh our young monk in Luang Prabang. He seemed to think Funh is doing just fine, particularly now he's moved to a more centrally located temple. Whilst in Luang Prabang we'll be seeing Funh and Alan Shiel one of the directors of LEOT and it will give us a chance to discuss with Alan Funh's future.
Tomorrow morning we have a guide so will report on the Vientiane highlights once we've seen them!
This morning we left behind the laid back islands of the south and boarded our long tail boat with guide La to find our driver Sac who had stayed on the mainland. A very easy 2hr drive to Pakse and with time to spare before going to the airport La took us for a coffee at the famed Sinouk coffee shop. You've heard of it surely. Seriously though the coffee was fantastic and the pastries can truly rival those of Cafe Valeris. The coffee is grown in the Bolaven Plateau on the Swan Sinouk plantation and as their lodge has a few rooms it should definitely go on our future trip list. Added to that should be the brand new Tree Top Explorer jungle hotel in Paksong. Zip-lining, trekking and staying overnight in a treetop hotel. Www.treetoplaos.com and www.laojunglefly.com
On the journey to Pakse it gave us time to chat to La a bit about Laos' history and of course some politics crept in. France governed from the late 1900's until 1943 then the Japanese came but only for 6 months as then the US dropped the bomb at Horishima and the Japanese hot footed out of there. Having read a bit more about the history covering the last 60 or so years it's so complicated that I shan't even start to comment here!
So we've arrived in Vientiane and our hotel the Green Park is gorgeous and has a greatlocate and Spamand located only 5 mins by Tuk Tuk into the centre.
We met Teng this evening, the Homeland Director of LEOT, the UK based charity helping us to help Funh our young monk in Luang Prabang. He seemed to think Funh is doing just fine, particularly now he's moved to a more centrally located temple. Whilst in Luang Prabang we'll be seeing Funh and Alan Shiel one of the directors of LEOT and it will give us a chance to discuss with Alan Funh's future.
Tomorrow morning we have a guide so will report on the Vientiane highlights once we've seen them!
Wednesday 5 January 2011
Chilling in Don Khone
The beer's very good in Lao. Beer Lao is quite famous internationally now but we have discovered Nam Khong beer here in the south which is equally as good if not better.
Shortly after we stopped for a spot of lunch on the riverside. No sooner had we sat down and there was a great deal of excited chatter coming from a couple of canoes on the river. We learnt as they approached the bank that they'd found a river snake. It was incredibly long and yellow (we ascertained this from afar). It disappeared into the back of the restaurant where presumably the family will feast tonight or it will appear on someone's plate in the restaurant as chicken or pork!
Well we'd cycled both islands so we took ourselves back to our floating bungalow and settled into deckchairs on our little balcony to wait for the sunset. The end of another part of our wonderful trip as tomorrow we fly to the capital Ventiane.
Will add more photos soon, promise.
Tuesday 4 January 2011
New Year, into Laos - Eco Lodge and 4000 islands
This is a bit of a long entry because Internet connection is very flaky. Sometimes even when we do have wireless we can receive emails and then can't send them which is very frustrating.
31st December
We rented two mountain bikes so we could ride the rougher roads round the Siem Reap countryside. Cycling here is very relaxing because everyone drives so slowly in Cambodia - not sure we'd have done the same in Vietnam - actually we did I remember and it was far from relaxing and we came close to being driven off the road into a ditch on several occasions.
New Years Eve at our hotel was a very elegant affair. Everyone was seated in the garden and the staff had made it look so pretty and romantic with tiny sparkling lights and floating candles in the lily ponds. Siem Reap generally was adorned with lights for the Christmas festive season - far more than we'd have in England at Christmas. Almost every bush and tree had something. Seems they're quite happy in SE Asia to add our New Year to their own long list of holidays. They also seem equally happy to carry the partying on for several days. Anyway I digress - back to New Years Eve - a string quartet who could have been straight out of the Bath pump rooms (except they were Cambodian) played us through two or three of our 7 dinner courses. Then came Apsara and Khmer dancing, also highly entertaining - performed by young teenage dancers and as most of the dances were boy meets girl stories there seemed to be plenty of genuine flirting. As with all New Years Eves there's always a lull around 11 when dinner ends and your waiting for the magic hour so we skyped our way round the world from our room before rejoining the party. Always slightly odd when you don't know anyone but the Italians were at least up for a bit of air kissing!
1st January 2011
New Years Day and we're travelling again - just a short flight to Pakse in Southern Laos where we were met by our new guide Mr La - we just call him La rightly or wrongly but he hasn't commented. Probably just pleased someone remembers his name. Itinerary in hand he whizzes us off to .... A temple - Wat Pho which is a very important temple in Laos. It was really lovely - 7th century built by King Jayaverman II and in the most beautiful setting. Built on several levels we realised as we panted upwards. It's deceiving as you don't realise there's another one til you get there. Apparently they used to carry out a female sacrifice annually all those years ago. There was no shortage of volunteers they say which to us would seem strange. All made rather real when you see at the very top a large rock with the silhouette of a girl carved out which is where the young girl would lay and be sacrificed. Their blood was then offered up to the gods and the body put into a small stone tomb and burnt. If the smoke went straight up it was good luck for all. You just hope the sacrifice always happened on a still day to make it worth it!
Getting to Wat Pho is fun. It's via a small and creaky car ferry across the Mekong River - only 10 mins or so. We were loaded on and just as we thought you couldn't get anyone else on they waved on a vast two tier truck that was taking a Laos band over for more New Year celebrations (still celebrating our New Year!). Even as we walked around the temple ruins there was loud music coming from a local house as laotians partied on.
After the temple visit we returned on the car ferry for a 40 minute drive to Kingfisher Ecolodge which is 7km down a dirt track off the main Pakse to Cambodia road. Apparently if you keep going on this particular dirt track for another 200 or so kilometers you get to Vietnam which explained why there were so many large trucks driving Vietnam style (i.e. Too fast and taking up both sides of the road). It took us back to last year when we were in Vietnam and how hairy some of the drives were.
We arrived just after sunset which is possibly a bit late as being Eco the lighting was dim and scarce and our loo was missing a bulb completely - not overly helpful that day when we both had dicky tums! The dozen or so other guests seemed incredibly chilled and by next morning so were we. The view from our house on stilts was so unexpected. As the sun rose Water buffalo were sloshing through the wetlands and flocks of white birds would arrive and leave, the odd one deciding to stay and do a bit of buffalo cleaning. Even an elephant wandered by on his way to work.
2nd January
After breakfast we walked through the village with our guide for the day Teoui to meet our elephants. We were off on a days trek atop an elephant into the local forest. We sat in a wicker armchair type seat - more comfortable than we were expecting and what other guests had commented. We went deeper and deeper into the jungle and at times we weren't sure how the elephant could squeeze his 4 large feet into such a small space as the path became narrower and narrower. We could see why they advised long sleeves and trousers - the forest was closing in.
There wasn't a lot to see in the way of life other than trees, butterflies and the one small snake that slithered rapidly off the path before being stomped on but Teoui was very knowledgeable about the medicinal properties of the various trees and plants which made it incredibly interesting. At one point he gave us a small twig to chew which was turmeric and what paracetemol is made from - it tasted just the same. There's a new Vietnamese pharmaceutical factory opened just south of Pakse - unfortunately next door is the monkey farm where they do their testing. Probably why we didn't even hear a monkey in the forest let alone see one. It's the root of turmeric that's yellow for you culinary bods out there who thought I'd got that bit of info wrong!
Midday we had a lovely picnic of chicken and rice by a stream in a clearing where we were visited by lots of different species of butterfly and where the elephants could have a rest, munch and a drink before making the return journey to the village. After lunch the swaying of the elephants was quite soporific and it was pretty difficult to keep your eyes open - in fact Teoui behind us on the second elephant conked out for ages! These young boys.
3rd January - 4000 islands
Our original guide La returned and we headed south for 4000 islands where we now are for 3 nights. We drove around 40 minutes and then arrived at a busy dusty street leading down to the Mekong. It was lined with numerous souvenir and clothing stalls - mostly filled with t-shirts and flip flops - an indicator the next few days was going to be kick back and relax time. We boarded our long-tail boat (this is when we realised it was seriously uncool to have a lump of a suitcase and not a rucksack). Gingerly we stepped into the boat as they are as we remembered very wobbly. We were joined by another couple of guys who you knew were seasoned travellers as no sooner were they seated they were asking each other where they'd just come from and where they're headed. Both in their 50's. The Aussie had already spent new year in the islands, left for a day and on his way back - apparently was missing the happy shakes and at 10am already had a beer on the go. He was getting off at Don Det - known to be the somewhat noisier and presumably very happy island where no-one gets up very early. We were on our way to the next island Don Khone.
Cutting to the chase this has got to be one of the most unspoilt laid back places you could go to. Probably like the caribbean might have been 60 or more years ago. It's strange, we're only 45 mins south of the Ecolodge but it's so much warmer. We were wearing jumpers at the Lodge in the evenings and here it's positively balmy in the evenings and hot during the day.
It's winter here at the moment so the dry season. The wet season wasn't as wet as it should have been so the rice harvest was short. This is not good and you really worry how they'll all cope in a few months time.
The landscape here in the islands is water with small bushy islands scattered about. A few are large enough and high enough to be built upon. After the summer rains it swells so that many of the unoccupied islands disappear completely and it becomes a 14km wide brown water mass.
There are no cars just bicycles, a few mopeds and chinese buffalo (the term used to describe a farmers 2 wheeled tractor with handle bars)
Our accommodation - floating bungalows at Sala Don Khone has the most enviable location and view. The company that owns them it seems has been putting money into various projects around the island for several years and it would appear little or none into the bungalows and they're getting a bit ropey. Consequently comparatively rather over-priced for what they are but we can at least console ourselves that our money is going to good causes (or the signs that say it is!).
Spent a brilliant day cycling round the island.
Followed the old railway track to the southern tip - bizarre there should have been a train at all but during the French rule and they were exporting teak. From here we went out on a boat looking for Irriwaddy dolphins and not remotely expecting to see any but we did. They were a bit distant but we know they're there. We'd also bought some pens and the primary school children on their way home the day before kept saying 'pen' 'pen' and looking expectantly at my handbag. The little ones i guess don't get them at school as were clutching small blackboard tablets. We bought 15 biros and expected to hand them to those that asked but of course it wasn't quite like that and suddenly we were surrounded by small children trying to snatch them out of our hands in fear they wouldn't get one. You just wouldn't believe how desperate and then equally grateful they were and we wished we'd had 150 for the whole school.
31st December
We rented two mountain bikes so we could ride the rougher roads round the Siem Reap countryside. Cycling here is very relaxing because everyone drives so slowly in Cambodia - not sure we'd have done the same in Vietnam - actually we did I remember and it was far from relaxing and we came close to being driven off the road into a ditch on several occasions.
New Years Eve at our hotel was a very elegant affair. Everyone was seated in the garden and the staff had made it look so pretty and romantic with tiny sparkling lights and floating candles in the lily ponds. Siem Reap generally was adorned with lights for the Christmas festive season - far more than we'd have in England at Christmas. Almost every bush and tree had something. Seems they're quite happy in SE Asia to add our New Year to their own long list of holidays. They also seem equally happy to carry the partying on for several days. Anyway I digress - back to New Years Eve - a string quartet who could have been straight out of the Bath pump rooms (except they were Cambodian) played us through two or three of our 7 dinner courses. Then came Apsara and Khmer dancing, also highly entertaining - performed by young teenage dancers and as most of the dances were boy meets girl stories there seemed to be plenty of genuine flirting. As with all New Years Eves there's always a lull around 11 when dinner ends and your waiting for the magic hour so we skyped our way round the world from our room before rejoining the party. Always slightly odd when you don't know anyone but the Italians were at least up for a bit of air kissing!
1st January 2011
New Years Day and we're travelling again - just a short flight to Pakse in Southern Laos where we were met by our new guide Mr La - we just call him La rightly or wrongly but he hasn't commented. Probably just pleased someone remembers his name. Itinerary in hand he whizzes us off to .... A temple - Wat Pho which is a very important temple in Laos. It was really lovely - 7th century built by King Jayaverman II and in the most beautiful setting. Built on several levels we realised as we panted upwards. It's deceiving as you don't realise there's another one til you get there. Apparently they used to carry out a female sacrifice annually all those years ago. There was no shortage of volunteers they say which to us would seem strange. All made rather real when you see at the very top a large rock with the silhouette of a girl carved out which is where the young girl would lay and be sacrificed. Their blood was then offered up to the gods and the body put into a small stone tomb and burnt. If the smoke went straight up it was good luck for all. You just hope the sacrifice always happened on a still day to make it worth it!
Getting to Wat Pho is fun. It's via a small and creaky car ferry across the Mekong River - only 10 mins or so. We were loaded on and just as we thought you couldn't get anyone else on they waved on a vast two tier truck that was taking a Laos band over for more New Year celebrations (still celebrating our New Year!). Even as we walked around the temple ruins there was loud music coming from a local house as laotians partied on.
After the temple visit we returned on the car ferry for a 40 minute drive to Kingfisher Ecolodge which is 7km down a dirt track off the main Pakse to Cambodia road. Apparently if you keep going on this particular dirt track for another 200 or so kilometers you get to Vietnam which explained why there were so many large trucks driving Vietnam style (i.e. Too fast and taking up both sides of the road). It took us back to last year when we were in Vietnam and how hairy some of the drives were.
We arrived just after sunset which is possibly a bit late as being Eco the lighting was dim and scarce and our loo was missing a bulb completely - not overly helpful that day when we both had dicky tums! The dozen or so other guests seemed incredibly chilled and by next morning so were we. The view from our house on stilts was so unexpected. As the sun rose Water buffalo were sloshing through the wetlands and flocks of white birds would arrive and leave, the odd one deciding to stay and do a bit of buffalo cleaning. Even an elephant wandered by on his way to work.
2nd January
After breakfast we walked through the village with our guide for the day Teoui to meet our elephants. We were off on a days trek atop an elephant into the local forest. We sat in a wicker armchair type seat - more comfortable than we were expecting and what other guests had commented. We went deeper and deeper into the jungle and at times we weren't sure how the elephant could squeeze his 4 large feet into such a small space as the path became narrower and narrower. We could see why they advised long sleeves and trousers - the forest was closing in.
There wasn't a lot to see in the way of life other than trees, butterflies and the one small snake that slithered rapidly off the path before being stomped on but Teoui was very knowledgeable about the medicinal properties of the various trees and plants which made it incredibly interesting. At one point he gave us a small twig to chew which was turmeric and what paracetemol is made from - it tasted just the same. There's a new Vietnamese pharmaceutical factory opened just south of Pakse - unfortunately next door is the monkey farm where they do their testing. Probably why we didn't even hear a monkey in the forest let alone see one. It's the root of turmeric that's yellow for you culinary bods out there who thought I'd got that bit of info wrong!
Midday we had a lovely picnic of chicken and rice by a stream in a clearing where we were visited by lots of different species of butterfly and where the elephants could have a rest, munch and a drink before making the return journey to the village. After lunch the swaying of the elephants was quite soporific and it was pretty difficult to keep your eyes open - in fact Teoui behind us on the second elephant conked out for ages! These young boys.
3rd January - 4000 islands
Our original guide La returned and we headed south for 4000 islands where we now are for 3 nights. We drove around 40 minutes and then arrived at a busy dusty street leading down to the Mekong. It was lined with numerous souvenir and clothing stalls - mostly filled with t-shirts and flip flops - an indicator the next few days was going to be kick back and relax time. We boarded our long-tail boat (this is when we realised it was seriously uncool to have a lump of a suitcase and not a rucksack). Gingerly we stepped into the boat as they are as we remembered very wobbly. We were joined by another couple of guys who you knew were seasoned travellers as no sooner were they seated they were asking each other where they'd just come from and where they're headed. Both in their 50's. The Aussie had already spent new year in the islands, left for a day and on his way back - apparently was missing the happy shakes and at 10am already had a beer on the go. He was getting off at Don Det - known to be the somewhat noisier and presumably very happy island where no-one gets up very early. We were on our way to the next island Don Khone.
Cutting to the chase this has got to be one of the most unspoilt laid back places you could go to. Probably like the caribbean might have been 60 or more years ago. It's strange, we're only 45 mins south of the Ecolodge but it's so much warmer. We were wearing jumpers at the Lodge in the evenings and here it's positively balmy in the evenings and hot during the day.
It's winter here at the moment so the dry season. The wet season wasn't as wet as it should have been so the rice harvest was short. This is not good and you really worry how they'll all cope in a few months time.
The landscape here in the islands is water with small bushy islands scattered about. A few are large enough and high enough to be built upon. After the summer rains it swells so that many of the unoccupied islands disappear completely and it becomes a 14km wide brown water mass.
There are no cars just bicycles, a few mopeds and chinese buffalo (the term used to describe a farmers 2 wheeled tractor with handle bars)
Our accommodation - floating bungalows at Sala Don Khone has the most enviable location and view. The company that owns them it seems has been putting money into various projects around the island for several years and it would appear little or none into the bungalows and they're getting a bit ropey. Consequently comparatively rather over-priced for what they are but we can at least console ourselves that our money is going to good causes (or the signs that say it is!).
Spent a brilliant day cycling round the island.
Followed the old railway track to the southern tip - bizarre there should have been a train at all but during the French rule and they were exporting teak. From here we went out on a boat looking for Irriwaddy dolphins and not remotely expecting to see any but we did. They were a bit distant but we know they're there. We'd also bought some pens and the primary school children on their way home the day before kept saying 'pen' 'pen' and looking expectantly at my handbag. The little ones i guess don't get them at school as were clutching small blackboard tablets. We bought 15 biros and expected to hand them to those that asked but of course it wasn't quite like that and suddenly we were surrounded by small children trying to snatch them out of our hands in fear they wouldn't get one. You just wouldn't believe how desperate and then equally grateful they were and we wished we'd had 150 for the whole school.
Thursday 30 December 2010
Okay, Siem Reap temples - our quick round-up
DAY 1
We left our hotel with guide and driver at 6.30 as the light was dawning. We stopped at the Angkor ticket booth for our pass - it's $40 per person for a 3 day pass with your picture and everything like they do on a ski pass.
First stop Ta Prohm - our guide book describes it perfectly: Abandoned to the elements, a reminder that while empires rise and fall, the power of nature marches on, oblivious to the dramas of human history. Left as it was discovered by French explorer Henri Mahout in 1860, the tentacle-like roots here are slowly strangling the stones. This is where Raiders of the Lost Ark was filmed.
Next stop Ta Kev which is far more like a pyramid with steep small steps but thankfully not as small as the ones of Wat Arun in Bangkok - those are positively scary. We then went back to our hotel for a bit of R&R by the pool until 12.30 when we were picked up again and taken for lunch at Reahoo Restaurant which belongs to Hanuman our guiding company. Lunch was a feast and in a lovely garden setting. Dessert was mmmm - oh so good, pumpkin in coconut milk.
Back to serious matters the third temple was Preah Khan built by King Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century and is a sister temple to Ta Prohm we saw earlier. This was a very beautiful temple with long corridors, wonderful carvings, more monstrous roots invading the stonework.
Next was Neak Pean. Totally different to the other temples and not really a temple at all but more of an ornamental fountain and pond with 4 smaller fountains one of each depicting lion, horse, human and elephant. Very restful area and a nice walk across the reservoir to get there.
I think we did Ta Som and or East Mebon but there the day blurs until we got to Pre Rup. This is distinctively different - it's older and made of red bricks. It's synonymous with sunset in Siem Reap. We clambered to the very top just before 5.30 and then wondered about get down those almost vertical steps at dusk with hundreds of other people. Instead we nipped down and took a photo of the temple itself from ground level and it looked so pretty in the dusky pinkish light.
DAY 2
Angor Thom, the Terrace of Elephants which used to be the viewing gallery for the King to preside over celebrations and traditional sports. At the centre is the Bayon Temple - where colossal heads bear down - it's quite overwhelming and one of the temples where I'd be happy to spend hours and take hundreds of photos in the hope one of them I'd be proud to place on the wall at home.
Finally Angkor Wat - huge in size and grandeur - it's size has to be seen to be believed. It apparently took 300,000 people and 40,000 elephants to build - but sooo crowded. Thousands of people. I think lots of people must come to Siem Reap and that's all they see.
Our next adventure was a boat trip on lake Tonle Sap, we purchased our tickets and boarded our small bespoke boat.We motored up the lake and after a short while a number of floating houses appeared. The scene was like something between Mad Max & Waterworld, home made water craft with large engines bolted on to iron frames whizzed between the wooden shacks, tiny children bobbed around in large aluminium cooking pots in the caramel coloured waters.
We stopped to drift for a while and within no time, a dugout canoe was heading our way, Mum & two tiny kids on board one of which had a huge Boa Constrictor writhing around his tiny body. Debs has a major snake phobia and as you can imagine with no where to run this was her version of hell. Using a mixture of hand and facial expression I managed to relay my urgent message to our new friends and they quickly paddled away.
Our guide asked us if we would like to see the Crocodile (one? we presumed) We tied off to a large floating market and clambered aboard, climbed some rickety steps and peered into a large wire enclosure below deck half submerged,there lay maybe sixty or so Crocs all intertwined, panting and rather smelly.
Time to go and so off we motored back to relative reality on shore!
Nearly New Years Eve.
We left our hotel with guide and driver at 6.30 as the light was dawning. We stopped at the Angkor ticket booth for our pass - it's $40 per person for a 3 day pass with your picture and everything like they do on a ski pass.
First stop Ta Prohm - our guide book describes it perfectly: Abandoned to the elements, a reminder that while empires rise and fall, the power of nature marches on, oblivious to the dramas of human history. Left as it was discovered by French explorer Henri Mahout in 1860, the tentacle-like roots here are slowly strangling the stones. This is where Raiders of the Lost Ark was filmed.
Next stop Ta Kev which is far more like a pyramid with steep small steps but thankfully not as small as the ones of Wat Arun in Bangkok - those are positively scary. We then went back to our hotel for a bit of R&R by the pool until 12.30 when we were picked up again and taken for lunch at Reahoo Restaurant which belongs to Hanuman our guiding company. Lunch was a feast and in a lovely garden setting. Dessert was mmmm - oh so good, pumpkin in coconut milk.
Back to serious matters the third temple was Preah Khan built by King Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century and is a sister temple to Ta Prohm we saw earlier. This was a very beautiful temple with long corridors, wonderful carvings, more monstrous roots invading the stonework.
Next was Neak Pean. Totally different to the other temples and not really a temple at all but more of an ornamental fountain and pond with 4 smaller fountains one of each depicting lion, horse, human and elephant. Very restful area and a nice walk across the reservoir to get there.
I think we did Ta Som and or East Mebon but there the day blurs until we got to Pre Rup. This is distinctively different - it's older and made of red bricks. It's synonymous with sunset in Siem Reap. We clambered to the very top just before 5.30 and then wondered about get down those almost vertical steps at dusk with hundreds of other people. Instead we nipped down and took a photo of the temple itself from ground level and it looked so pretty in the dusky pinkish light.
DAY 2
Angor Thom, the Terrace of Elephants which used to be the viewing gallery for the King to preside over celebrations and traditional sports. At the centre is the Bayon Temple - where colossal heads bear down - it's quite overwhelming and one of the temples where I'd be happy to spend hours and take hundreds of photos in the hope one of them I'd be proud to place on the wall at home.
Finally Angkor Wat - huge in size and grandeur - it's size has to be seen to be believed. It apparently took 300,000 people and 40,000 elephants to build - but sooo crowded. Thousands of people. I think lots of people must come to Siem Reap and that's all they see.
Our next adventure was a boat trip on lake Tonle Sap, we purchased our tickets and boarded our small bespoke boat.We motored up the lake and after a short while a number of floating houses appeared. The scene was like something between Mad Max & Waterworld, home made water craft with large engines bolted on to iron frames whizzed between the wooden shacks, tiny children bobbed around in large aluminium cooking pots in the caramel coloured waters.
We stopped to drift for a while and within no time, a dugout canoe was heading our way, Mum & two tiny kids on board one of which had a huge Boa Constrictor writhing around his tiny body. Debs has a major snake phobia and as you can imagine with no where to run this was her version of hell. Using a mixture of hand and facial expression I managed to relay my urgent message to our new friends and they quickly paddled away.
Our guide asked us if we would like to see the Crocodile (one? we presumed) We tied off to a large floating market and clambered aboard, climbed some rickety steps and peered into a large wire enclosure below deck half submerged,there lay maybe sixty or so Crocs all intertwined, panting and rather smelly.
Time to go and so off we motored back to relative reality on shore!
Nearly New Years Eve.
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